Installing soakaways, do this first

The first thing that you will need to think about when undertaking any DIY plumbing soakaways construction or sewage work are the regulations issued by your Local Authority.

You will have to present detailed plans for the proposed drainage work when you are changing existing sewage system or installing a new sewage system, and also need regular inspections to be undertaken to ensure that the plans are following the local building regulations during progressing each phase of the work. However you do not require authority approval for replacement of failed joints or cracked plumbing and drains pipes. This may be the case with soakaways, depending on the scope of the development.

If you hear the term ’surface water’ in any sewage documents this basically means rain. In older properties this can discharged into a foul water sewage system whereas in other properties this can discharged into soakaways, a watercourse or a surface water sewer. The rainwater pipes in combined drainage systems empty their discharge into the foul water drains through gully traps, this prevent foul air from escaping outside creating odours. However with the new sewage systems, the foul and the surface water can be kept apart. The soakaways are not connected to the sewers. It is extremely important to ensure that you do not connect foul water to a surface water sewage system. When in doubt about the how the modern sewage system works, consult the Building Control Department.

Before you begin, you will need to plan the route of the waste pipes and siting of any soakaways. The route should be as short and straight as possible, this will help to reduce future maintenance problems and costs. Also, make sure none of the pipes are laid at too steep an angle. A surveyor’ site level should be used to work out the fall of a drainpipe. A hosepipe filled with water from an established datum point can be used if you don’t have a surveyor’s site level.

When installing your drain trench, you will need to make sure that you do not impair the stability of the building. If you are laying a drainage run parallel to the home, you must ensure that any foundations are not undermined.

When fitting in a new drainage system, you should not dig the ditch too long before placing the pipe as the ditch could collapse. Make sure that you get the pipes laid as quickly as possible and then back fill the trench as soon as the system has been inspected and tested.

The trench may need to be supported depending on the depth and soil conditions. Do not take any risks. If in doubt add support to the trench to prevent it from collapsing. The trench should be narrow, but spacious enough for people to work with any required tools. The bottom of the trench must be smooth and clean, free of any objects that make it uneven such as stones or bricks. If the existing soil is too weak or clayey, you should place and compact a layer of firmer soil at the base of the ditch to prevent later sinking.

Pipework must be uniformly supported by the soil bed, and not by stones or bricks haphazardly placed underneath the pipes. This should not be used as support for the short or the long run because it will damage the pipe, the pipe needs to be fully supported over its full length. The base should be tightly packed in the appropriate manner with holes carved out to fit in the protruding pipe connections. The entire drain pipe system has to be uniformly supported by the soil bedding.

An important criteria for pipe layout is that you should be able to access any point with a drain rod to clear blockages through the drains or where connected to the soakaways. This need for drain rod access can be easily achieved by keeping the pipeline straight and in short sections. An inspection chamber should be present at places where the pipework changes its direction, this is important so that it remains accessible to drain rods and they do not need to go around corners.

Following this guide you can see that work on soakaways, DIY plumbing and drainage can be delivered by conscientious DIY enthusiasts.

Drain project and soakaways designing first footsteps

The first thing that you will need to think about when undertaking any DIY plumbing and drainage are the regulations issued by your Local Authority. You will also need to check their rules for soakaways.

You will have to present detailed plans for the proposed sewage work when you are changing existing drainage system or installing a new drainage system, and also need regular inspections to be undertaken to ensure that the plans are following the local building regulations during progressing each phase of the work. In many situations when you are simply replacing damaged parts or maintaining soakaways, there is no need for the local authority to be informed.

If you hear the term ’surface water’ in any sewage documents this basically means rain. In older properties this surface water can find its way into the foul water sewage system, but more generally it can also end up in a watercourse, surface water sewer or soakaways. The rainwater pipes in combined drainage systems empty their discharge into the foul water drains through gully traps, this prevent foul air from escaping outside creating unpleasant odours. But modern systems are especially created so that dirty water and surface water remain separate. Foul water should never be connected to surface water drainage system, the soakaways, with any new drainage development you undertake. If you are unsure about the sewage system around your house get advice from the Building Control Department before you start any work.

Before you begin, you will need to plan the underground route of the waste pipes. The main things to consider when planning the route of a waste or soil pipe are to keep the route as straight and short as you can. If the pipe slope to the sewers or the soakaways is excessive, your joint alignment may fail. Using surveyor’s site level you can calculate the fall of a drain over a distance to check the values. If you do not have one of these available, establish a datum point and use a hose filled with water to establish levels and calculate the fall from the datum this way.

When installing your drain trench, you will need to make sure that you do not impinge on or impair the stableness of the building. If you are laying a drainage run parallel to the home, you must ensure that any foundations are not undermined.

Do not dig the ditch too long before laying the pipe when installing a new drainage system. The pipes should be laid quickly and the ditch back filled after the system has been examined thoroughly and tested as required.

You may need to provide some support to the trench depending on the soil in that area and the depth of the ditch. Avoid risks when working in the ditch. If you have any worries, you should support to the trench to reduce any risk of collapsing side walls during the building phase. Make sure that you leave enough room in the trench for you to work but try to keep it as small as possible. The base of the trench should be clean and even and free from protruding stones or bricks etc. If the existing soil is too weak or clayey, you should place and compact a layer of firmer soil at the base of the ditch to prevent later sinking.

You should definitely not use hard materials such as bricks to support the pipe in the ditch. Even if used for just a temporary support this can damage the pipe. The bedding should be properly compacted with hollows made to accommodate the joints in the pipes. For the complete pipe length you have to provide a continuous and uniform support.

It is important that all parts of your sewage system and soakaways are designed so that all parts of the pipework are accessible to a set of drain rods. Which means that a run of drains must be installed straight between two points. As a general rule, any change in direction of the pipework should be provided with an inspection chamber to allow rodding access.

DIY plumbing and sewage is certainly within the limits of most DIY enthusiasts as is typical development of soakaways.

Plugged Drains will make you see red

You are standing under the shower for a relaxing time, and all of sudden you realize that water is rising around your feet. How disgusting! the drain pipe is stopped . Or you’re in front of the toilet sink, brushing your teeth and before you know it – the sink is halfway full. Dealing with stopped drains is all together an unpleasant experience because it is complicated and unsanitary. However, plugged drains are something that cannot be avoided; every household has to cope with it sooner or later. But there are ways to unblock bathroom drains easily and can make this unenviable job a lot easier.

What causes a obstructed drain pipe?.

obstructed drainage can occur when some material such as hair, dust and particles become trapped in the area between your bathroom drain and the drainage pipes that follow underneath. Everyday products like soaps, shampoos, detergents and so on add to the problem by building up around the solid material. As the mass grows, it restricts the free flow of water, and the drainpipe eventually becomes choked. If water builds up quickly in your sink or tub when it should flow smoothly out of your drain pipe, you may already have a plumbing clog on your hands.

How to remove the drainpipe blockage.

If you want your water to start running freely then there are a few things you can do to rectify the problem. The first step is to remove the plug whether the blocked drain pipe is in a sink or bath. In case of a bathroom sink, the plug can be removed easily with a simple pull or it might need the complex effort of unlocking the hook keeping it in place from under the sink. With respect to the bath, the screws have to be loosened to remove the plug or the overflow plate has to be dismantled.

The accumulated matter clogging up your drainpipe may be clearly visible when you have taken off the plug. You are most likely to see bunch of hair and other debris entangled in a blockage. Try to get hold of the mass and pull it out. Use a wire from a clothes hangar or some other apparatus if you have difficulties reaching the clog or grabbing the build up so that you can pull it out. This step of removing the residual clumps will remove the local blockage at your drain pipe point.

If, after exposing the drain pipe, you observe that the blockage is not close enough for removal with the wire you have, then you will need to find another way. Use a drain plunger to loosen the blockage that is deeper down the pipework. First, cover the overflow drainpipe with a wet cloth in order to make the air suction from the plunger stronger. Now position the plunger exactly over and around the drain pipe hole and push it rapidly up and down with short quick movements. You may find that this suction-push action of the plunger loosens the blocked debris down the pipe and the collected water now drains freely.

You can unblock the drains through chemical drain pipe cleaner too if a drainage plunger does not work for you. Chemical Substances should be applied only after all else fails because they are hazardous and can damage your bathroom hardware.

Bring in the Pros for a professional drains solution.

If the above methods fail to solve your blocked drainpipe problem then you may have to contact a plumber. Plumbers should have equipment that can help unclog drainage quickly and easily. It might cost you some money, but a plumber’s expertise can give quite a relief with this type of messy household problem.

Sewage backup problems can be unsafe to your health.

If you are experiencing drainage backing up into your bathroom toilets, bath tubs, and showers, it is time to telephone your plumber. Action should be taken immediately as this can effect your well being, sewerage is full of germs, so this problem should be resolved immediately.

Dilute a cup of bleach with 5 Imperial gallons of water and start sanitising the toilet, even before the plumbers come in. Make sure that young kids and elder family members stay away from the drainage leakage, and put on long pants, gloves and boots. Use clean warm water and soap to wash your hands once you have finished. You can decrease the flow of water into your drain to reduce your drainage leakage problem while you are waiting for a repair.

There might be a stoppage between the toilet and the shower, or the waste line may have been plugged. Whatever the cause, protecting you and your family from harmful waste needs to be your first concern.

Symptoms from being exposed to sewerage may include diarrhea, stomach pain, fever, chills, and vomiting. Consult a doctor right away if you , or anyone in your household, exhibit any of the above symptoms.

With a mixture of one cup of bleach to five Imperial gallons of water you should clean any items and surfaces that have been polluted by the drainage. Any sewage affected item that cannot be washed, like pillows, mattresses or stuffed toys, has to be disposed off safely.

You can try clearing the back flow in a shower area by manipulating a plumbers snake tool into the drain. It would be best for you to get 25 feet long one quarter inch snake to tackle the problem if you are not calling in a sewers contractor. It will move more easily through the line. Sometimes in a bathroom the shower trap gets clogged but at the same time the toilet remains unaffected. This happens because the toilet trap is installed about 6 inches above the flooring and the shower drain is installed at the same level as the floor.

The sewage backflow may be too severe for you to tackle, in which case you should immediately ask for professional help. They will cleanse the drainage totally and also identify the cause of the obstruction, getting rid of it for you and giving you recommendations on how to avoid a similar situation. Be absolutely sure that you know what you are doing when you are attempting to fix your own plumbing, otherwise it’s always best to contact the experts to do the task.